Decent surf at Mustang's spot yesterday. I am still not surfing well. I have such a very long way to go.
You can really see the guys that always seem to take off in the right spot. Always manage a cutback or two. And always bail before the close out.
I never drop in at the right spot. I blow 90% of my pop up's. And, always stay on the wave too long; riding the crumbling white water almost to shore.
But I just love being out there. As long as I don't get in anyone's way.
I was very careful not to over use my shoulder yesterday. So of course I stepped in a hole and tweaked my back while ungracefully exiting the shore break. I'm not a kid anymore.