Above photo taken by Steve Domjan at the Bowl. Thank you Steve, you could have been sailing you

  • Above photo taken by Steve Domjan at the Bowl. Thank you Steve, you could have been sailing yourself instead of taking photos of me.

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Camp Mustang

Decent surf at Mustang's spot yesterday. I am still not surfing well. I have such a very long way to go.

You can really see the guys that always seem to take off in the right spot. Always manage a cutback or two. And always bail before the close out.
I never drop in at the right spot. I blow 90% of my pop up's. And, always stay on the wave too long; riding the crumbling white water almost to shore.

But I just love being out there. As long as I don't get in anyone's way.

I was very careful not to over use my shoulder yesterday. So of course I stepped in a hole and tweaked my back while ungracefully exiting the shore break. I'm not a kid anymore.

No comments: