Well I can say I surfed, and windsurfed this passed week’s hurricane swell.
Although, I can’t say I did either well. I could make up some amazing story about riding the 15 swells and 30 mph wind...But that never really happened. [Not in the way I wanted to, anyway.]
The last few weeks have been nice. Now that we have ”theoretical full access” to Long Island’s oceanfront...the difficult part has been deciding what beach to use when. And, there are still some bugs to be worked out. Last Friday after work, Domer and I launched from RM 5. I used a big floaty 125 ltr board, a 10 inch weed/wave fin, and a 6.9 wave sail. We launched to the west of the swimmers and sailed east about a half mile to a nice stack if waves in front if the Fire Island Lighthouse. Epic, by no means; but fun; and nice to be able to do without breaking archaic some Park rule written 60 years ago. And that’s been nice; I am grateful that the NYS Parks Now consider Windsurfing, Surfing.
It’s been a hot, and mellow summer. The perfect opportunity to get my sea legs back; get strong again. That...has been a frustrating endeavor. As I enter my 50’s; I don’t bounce back from injuries as fast as I expect. My mind still thinks I’m in my 20’s.
When one injury starts to feel better, another old one re-emerges to remind me I am pushing too hard. It was a little over a year ago that I was in a coma for a few days. It is amazing to me how those few days are still effecting me.
Then the swell happens. All week I am being hit with relentless text messages. Overhead here, Mast high there.
What you have to understand is that Long island is usually frequented by short period sand bar swell. That is what most people think the surf is like here. But in the fall, tropical storms and hurricanes push huge volumes of water our way. So, when a 4 foot swell with a period of 10 seconds or more comes our way, we can’t sleep, we can’t work...We all know that when that little 4 foot bump in 100s of feet of water suddenly encounters an 8 foot deep sand bar or point break...Let’s just say the unsOund Right Coast Cup had great surf for the Pro’s.
I, on the other hand surfed very poorly on my 6'2" this week. I have been spending most of my time on much bigger boards. But I could deal with that. It was the wind forecast for Saturday that did me in. See I am a pretty poor surfer; But I am at home in the Ocean on a Windsurfer. That doesn’t mean I did very well yesterday. The directly onshore wind made just getting off the beach an exercise in breaking stuff. K-Dawg, & Billing both broke a mast, Air George, a board; and I; I twisted my ankle in the shore break. The same one I twisted last month on the boat, and the month before in the gym. As I sit here writing this, it is wrapped in ice. I understand it had not healed enough for 25 knot wind and 12 foot surf. I just hope I can support my weight enough on it tomorrow so I can drive to work.
And so...one step forward; two steps back, again.
Would I have it any other way? Will my maturity have me learn from my mistakes?