Above photo taken by Steve Domjan at the Bowl. Thank you Steve, you could have been sailing you

  • Above photo taken by Steve Domjan at the Bowl. Thank you Steve, you could have been sailing yourself instead of taking photos of me.

Sunday, February 5, 2012

Teahupoo


I am not a good surfer by any stretch of the imagination. But surfing teaches one universal truth…life is measured in seconds. It is those short and tiny moments in life that that define us. That is where we find true joy and beauty.

And if we are lucky enough, we can spend our lives in search of those moments.

BIGGEST TEAHUPOO EVER from UnFuzzy on Vimeo.




"This day at Teahupoo- Aug 27th 2011 during the Billabong Pro waiting period is what many are calling the biggest and gnarliest Teahupoo ever ridden. Chris Bryan was fortunate enough to be there working for Billabong on a day that will go down in the history of big wave surfing. The French Navy labeled this day a double code red prohibiting and threatening to arrest anyone that entered the water.
Kelly Slater described the day by saying "witnessing this was a draining feeling being terrified for other people's lives all day long, it's life or death. Letting go of that rope one time can change your life and not many people will ever experience that in their life."
All images where shot by Chris Bryan using the Phantom HD Gold camera. To see more of Chris' work check out his website. WWW.CHRISBRYANFILMS.COM
Music: Lower Your Eyelids to Die with the Sun' by M83.
by Chris Bryan "

Most of the Long Island Crew is getting ready to spend the next few weeks in Bonaire, Nicaragua, or some other choice wind and/or wave location. The rest are enjoying the relatively warm winter.

I’m still trying to work hard at work, and my rehab. Until I am back… I do my best to remember the moments.

1 comment:

PeconicPuffin said...

That is a crazy majestic wave. Looks computer generated but it's Mother Nature's own. Amazing.